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    To California's Basque Country, propelled by hydrogen

    by Charles Fleming, Los Angeles Times May 27, 2019 5 minutes

    BAKERSFIELD, Calif. - In May 1968, I took a road trip with my father to see Cesar E. Chavez and Bobby Kennedy speak in the Central Valley farm town of Delano. Chavez was fighting for civil rights for farmworkers. Kennedy was campaigning for president. Both were eloquent and moving.

    On the drive back, my father detoured into Bakersfield. He had heard about a Basque restaurant that, like the country inns we loved in our home state of North Carolina, served family-style dinners.

    It was not oversold. We had one of the best meals of our lives.

    Chavez, Kennedy and my father are gone, but the Basque restaurants remain. This spring, I took another road trip - solo, this time - to find the place where we had eaten in 1968 and

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