Surfer

Sal Masekela, 47

The act of surfing is about as musical as physical expression can be in sports. It’s rhythmic, and if you don’t have rhythm with the ocean, you won’t be able to surf—you have to have metronome in some way. I grew up playing music and when I first moved to the West Coast I traded in music for surfing. Surfing became my music.

Grandma, grandpa, parents and kids can all go on a surf trip together. There’s something extremely powerful and bonding about the fact that

You’re reading a preview, subscribe to read more.

More from Surfer

Surfer1 min read
Lower Trestles, California
At 7 p.m. on April 7, California State Parks closed off access to Trestles—just one of many typically-overrun breaks around the world to have its access restricted to curb the spread of COVID-19. This photo, taken by photographer Pat Stacy shortly af
Surfer3 min read
RS Surf Co
RS Surf Co is a board brand with high-performance bona fides, but being based in Southern California, they also understand the importance of working shreddy design features into fuller outlines that offer some giddyup in average surf. The result? The
Surfer13 min read
Warriors Of The Bight
“WE WON.” The text message was to the point. “WON WHAT?” I replied. It was early morning. “THE BIGHT. THE NORWEGIANS HAVE FUCKED OFF.” The message from my surfing associate down in the Great Australian Bight took a minute to sink in. Huge if true. Ha

Related Books & Audiobooks