BRINGING UP BEEFSTEAK

For those who love steak but could do without such highbrow formalities as silverware, the beefsteak banquet is a dream come true. These private functions date back to late-19th-century New York City, when they were thrown by politicians or as fundraisers for fire departments and other civic organizations.

The format then was simple: Men (and only men) would pay a small entry fee, for which they’d have access to all the beef and beer they could consume. Side dishes were minimal and table settings nonexistent. Steak was cut into bite-sized pieces that the men would eat with their