Apples An American Classic
AMERICANS CONSUME a lot of apples — an average of 45 pounds of the fresh and processed fruit per person per year in the United States — so you’d think we know how the fruit should taste. The flavor of ‘Red Delicious,’ ‘McIntosh,’ ‘Gala,’ and other supermarket apples is often described the same way, as “sweet” and “mild.” Therein lays the problem. Beneath their perfect peels, these fruits are uniform, uninteresting, and even bland.
The flavor profiles of heirloom apples, though, stand in stark epicurean contrast. “A lot of our cultivars have pineapple and citrus notes, and one has a nutmeg flavor,” says Zeke Goodband, orchardist for the ScottFarm Orchard in southern Vermont, where 40 acres of trees are in production — more than 3,000 trees. “If we lined up all the trees,” Goodband says, “we’d have 20 miles of rows in our orchard.” Most rows include at least three cultivars, and, in total, the orchard holds more than 125 different apple cultivars. Most are of American provenance and date from the 19th and 20th centuries, but a number of older French and English trees
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