Shape shifter

ussein Chalayan has been marking his 25th anniversary in the fashion business in some more and – as one might expect – some less usual ways. He held a celebratory dinner where fashion greats mingled with artists and family members, but he also worked on a series of collections for his anniversary year – the menswear, pre-fall and womenswear that you see in this issue – that pivoted on the theme of pretension. ‘It’s something I’ve been accused of, because if you’re a narrative designer it can come across like that,’ he says. ‘But that’s my process, and if you can make a collection