Traces

WITHIN EARSHOT OF THE WATER

Standing on one of Sydney’s ferries, it’s hard not to be jolted by the sights and sounds of the harbour. The throb of engines, the noise of crowds, and the whooshes of trains and traffic as the boat pulls out of Circular Quay can be overwhelming.

The ferries stop at Mosman, Manly and Milsons Point, where fishers share the wharf with boats and commuters. Yet these places were occupied, named and fished long before ‘Sydney’ appeared on any charts or maps.

It’s at one of these harbour places, once

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