Surfing Life

NOT DROWNING BUT WINNING

It was 2013, and there was a rumour of a story out there in the ether, that the biggest wave in the world had been ridden in Portugal, and I was asked to chase the story.

My investigations led me to Carlos Burle, and I tracked his number down. It had been a few years since we had last chatted at the Red Bull Big Wave Africa, in Cape Town, but I wanted to talk to him about the real story on Nazaré, Portugal. Everyone knew that there was a crew on it, and there was a rumour that it was the biggest waves ever seen and ridden by a human. Carlos is a legend to talk to. His sense of humour combined with his faltering English can be quite fun,

You’re reading a preview, subscribe to read more.

More from Surfing Life

Surfing Life5 min read
Ancient Material, Modern Technology
Wooden surfboard manufacturing isn’t new to surfing. First Nations people around the globe, most notably the nation of Hawai‘i, have been riding them for thousands of years. When the Hawaiian Duke Kahanamoku came to Australia, in 1914, for a swimmin
Surfing Life4 min read
The Retirement Asterisk
The last time Kelly Slater *retired, he went to Hollywood and wrestled a giant squid in a cave off the coast of Malibu. Kelly Slater’s Baywatch career, in the recurring role of Jimmy Slade, ended in 1993 after 27 episodes (a couple of seasons) of the
Surfing Life12 min read
Thanks From The Bottom Of My ...
Picking the right surfboard bottom is like backing the right horse at the racetrack; what horse will run well on one course won’t necessarily run as well on another. Adding the jockey and the condition of the track complicates the equation further.

Related Books & Audiobooks