GRANULAR DESIGN

I’VE ACTUALLY BEEN TO EVERY BEACH IN AUSTRALIA…ALL 11 761 OF THEM

I’ve always been fascinated by the forces that shape waves.

I grew up in Sydney and started surfing on the Northern Beaches when I was 14. I joined North Narrabeen Boardriders club in 1966, the year after it was founded. Being a surfer before I went to university, I had to find a career that satisfied my surfing interests. I studied coastal geomorphology at the University of Sydney, then did a masters and a Ph.D. in marine science.

In the process, I’ve seen a lot of coastline around the world. I’ve actually been to every beach in Australia. Half of the Australian coast consists of sandy beaches and yet there we were