White Horses

AN END & A BEGINNING

Where do you go once you have reached the end of the world? This is the question that the pilgrims were now having to ask themselves, with bruised and battered limbs, physically and mentally spent after weeks on the road. Standing along the extremity of continental Europe, we watched on as they soaked their boots in lighter fluid and set them ablaze under the mid-morning sun.

The answer was clear to us, at least. You go back the way you came – shoeless, presumably. Back down the same lane we had squeezed our van up after a refreshing morning surf at a scenic rivermouth. After leading to the end of

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