CHAMPAGNE

Climate change has so far been good to Champagne. The 2000s and 2010s were two great decades. As each harvest succeeded the one before, the growers and producers began to run out of superlatives for the quality of the fruit. And that quality has translated into the most recent releases of nonvintage Champagnes. These are the bottles we are most likely to see in the shops—the brands that aim for consistency year in, year out.

As the wine ages, toastiness emerges, it loses that up-front fruit and instead gains depth and richness.

However, one thing we forget, as we so often buy the bottle and enjoy it immediately, is that Champagne—even nonvintage bottles—can age. The bright acidity, steeliness and freshness of the wines see to that.

Many Champagnes are bottled when the wines are still young and vibrant. They can be drunk for their bright character, but the best offerings are balanced by touch of yeastiness akin to brioche. As the wine ages, a toastiness emerges, it loses that up-front fruit and instead gains depth and richness.

What is true of nonvintage Champagnes is even more true of the more expensive vintage bottles. These wines are the product of one year rather than a blend of several years, usually offering more focus and intensity. This century has seen some great vintages: 2002, 2004, 2008 and, most recently, among the wines on the market, 2012. These wines will age for at least 20 years, probably more, all the while gaining depth,