SHORT BREAK IN... RIJEKA, CROATIA

At various times in its history, Croatia’s largest port was part of Austria-Hungary, Italy, Germany and, briefly, even its own city state when it was occupied by the proto-fascist poet Gabriele d’Annunzio. But for a city that’s been bounced between several empires and manages to hold 22 ethnic minorities, Rijeka doesn’t seem to have an identity crisis: it’s cosmopolitan, multicultural and even at times a bit anarchic – it was the hotbed for Yugoslavia’s punk scene – which has all fed into the city’s rich cultural heritage. Being designated one of 2020’s European Capitals of Culture has given a further boost to Rijeka’s cultural