MY TOP 10: EXCITING RHONE DISCOVERIES
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Sometimes I come across estates whose wines are so good that I can’t believe they’re not better known. Usually it’s because they’re from obscure appellations, or simply because these vignerons are more focused on making the wine than marketing it.
Here are 10 domaines that I’ve been enjoying recently, all of which make beautiful wines that speak not only of where they’re from, but also bear the unmistakable imprint of the hands that made them.
Cave Julien Cécillon
ST-JOSEPH
After working in wineries in South Africa and California (where he met his wife Nancy Kerschen), Julien Cécillon, along with his family, eventually returned home to the northern Rhône. His roots go deep here – he is one of a long line of vignerons, and his uncle is winemaking legend Jean-Louis Grippat – but his experience abroad has helped develop a style that is somewhere between traditional and modern.
In the 10 years that Cécillon’s estate has been up and running, it has gained a reputation for dependable wines from around the southern pole of the northern Rhône, made both from vineyards he’s acquired himself and from bought grapes. He now makes St-Joseph, Crozes-Hermitage, Cornas, St-Péray and a range of impressive Vin de France varietal wines. Kerschen has also started making wines under her own L’Etrangère label, and her first wine, a 2018 Syrah Vin de France, proves that Cécillon’s not the only winemaking talent in the family.
Cave Julien Cécillon, Babylone, St-Joseph 2018 91
£24.76-£29.95 A&B Vintners, Davy’s
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An intriguing mix of Old World elegance and New World polish. Gentle spiciness and a sunny generosity on the palate, but well balanced for the vintage. Oak work is measured and well integrated, it doesn’t dominate and this has
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