A Tale of Two Harbours

To reach Whangaroa Harbour, the most direct route is via State Highway 10 through the small town of Kaeo. It would have been a convenient place for early European settlement as the Kaeo River runs into the harbour and water was the favoured mode of transport in those days. Several of the town’s buildings are relatively unchanged from the time they were built more than a century ago. Kaeo’s Whangaroa County Museum has a wealth of genealogical information, and it’s clear that the early missionaries took the edict ‘go forth and multiply’ fairly seriously, as during our own travels throughout the country we have met people from Invercargill north with a Kaeo connection.

But for a longer and infinitely more scenic trip, turn right onto Matauri Bay Road before descending the hill into Kaeo. This is a loop road, where some of the views are truly world and more astounding views. I’m running out of superlatives here, but seriously on a blue-dome day, you couldn’t ask to be anywhere better.