Cook's Country

Kalbi

MY MOMIS a great cook, but like many people with her depth of experience, she never measures anything. By the time I came of age and really wanted to learn how to make some of the nostalgic Korean dishes I ate growing up (and now enjoyed at fancy Korean restaurants), I was living in New York City, nearly 3,000 miles away from home.

This is when I enlisted the help of my older sister, Yong Woo, who lives in Portland, Oregon, near my mom. She, like me, grew up baking, so she appreciates the exactness of a leveled measuring cup and the preciseness of a gram of sugar. When she married into a very traditional Korean family, she suddenly found herself needing to know how to

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