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F YOU EVER WANT A REMINDER OF your unimportance in the world – in the best possible way – Svalbard is the place to visit. This Norwegian archipelago sits at an eye-watering 78°N, some 800 kilometres off the mainland coast and just 1,300 kilometres from the North Pole. It’s well above the Arctic Circle (66°30’N), and would be permanently locked by ice if it wasn’t for the Gulf Stream. There’s still a lot of snow, which makes it the ultimate playground for