National Geographic Traveller (UK)

The inside guide to TRASTEVERE

rastevere is many things to many people. Bar aficionados come for the nightlife, others to admire its boho-pretty cobbled streets. And many Romans think it’s over — ruined by tourists, the artisans of the past pushed out to make way for hipster bars. Although this isn’t the proudly working-class area stuffed with earthy trattorias and

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