The ocean has that morning turquoise glow, and inviting white sand fringes bay after bay. I cycle past cottages where children in pyjamas, hair askew, munch toast in their courtyards. Teenagers ride by, chatting as they wrangle surfboards. Chances are, their mums and dads holidayed here as kids, too, and nothing much has changed since.
I’m on Rottnest Island, a 30-minute ferry ride from the Perth suburb of Fremantle. ‘Rotto’, as
