Trevor Wigley switches off the engine of his old Toyota bakkie and gets out. We’re on a jeep track near the village of Qolora on the Wild Coast. In the valley below, cattle drink from the Gxara River. A sow and four piglets trot down a hill after being chased from someone’s garden.
“It’s hard to imagine that some of the darkest times in Xhosa history took place here,” says Trevor. He takes out a photo of a young woman. “This is
