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ob Chaulk lives about a half hour from the wreck of the in Nova Scotia. He often heads out there in a 17-footer that he built himself; it’s what he calls a very modest nod to the grand tradition of his schooner-building ancestors. For the better part of 30 years, he’s been donning a dry suit and descending into the frigid waters off Halifax to dive the site of what, in her day, was the world’s worst transatlantic passenger ship disaster. Chaulk has been searching for clues underwater—and in documents on land, and in’s demise.