An early taste of the top 2020 southern Rhônes
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
KEY PRODUCER Château Rayas 99
This has more length and breadth than most 2020 white Châteauneufs, with spiced citrus notes of satsuma and grapefruit decorated with cinnamon. Broad but not overly full-bodied, with bright acidity, tension and a tight mineral line. Long on the finish, with balanced alcohol, ending on pink grapefruit. A beautifully fine and fresh vintage of Rayas blanc. Drink 2022-2034
1 KEY PRODUCER & WHITE WINE OF THE VINTAGE: SOUTHERN RHONE
Château de Beaucastel 98 B
£46.67 (ib)-£81.67 Averys, Clarion Wines, Farr Vintners, Goedhuis & Co, IG wines, JN Wine, Justerini & Brooks, Lay & Wheeler, Millésima, Montrachet, The Big Red Wine Co, The Wine Society, Uncorked
Closed for now, with apricot and a touch of crème anglaise. Full-bodied but not massive, this has plenty of tension keeping things neat, and a shining beam of acidity running through. Real length and intensity, and remarkably saline this year, displaying great power and balance. 80% Roussanne, 10% Grenache Blanc and Clairette, 10% Bourboulenc, Picardan and Piquepoul Blanc; part of the blend was matured in two- and three-year-old barriques for one year. Drink 2023-2036 Alc 14%
2 Château La Nerthe, Clos de Beauvenir 98 O
Violets, quince, yellow plums and honeysuckle on the nose. Rounded and seductive, but not overly fat, restrained on the palate, with perfectly measured acidity and integrated oak. Great sense of harmony, showing Burgundian finesse and a long finish. Organically grown on sandy soils in the Clos de Beauvenir near the house, fermented in demi-muid and stainless steel, then aged for seven months in demi-muid, with 15% spending seven months in new barriques. 1,300 bottles made. Drink 2022-2035 Alc 14.5%
‘The best Châteauneuf terroirs really shone, producing athletic, elegant wines of intensity and panache’
