aggan Anand takes a little bit of getting used to. The chef, who once grew up in poverty outside Kolkata, is the most famous Indian chef in the world who does what he likes and says what he says. He also cooks the way he deems fit, manipulating Indian cuisine into dishes that defy tradition, categorisation and at times, manners. At some point during your meal, you might be requested to slip a miniature doughnut over your middle finger. It’s unassuming in the fine-dining world, but whatever it is, he’s managed to create
