… and the living is easy

There is undeniable madness in big-wave surfing. Little else explains a sport that requires towing someone into raging walls of saltwater that rise anywhere between six and 30 metres tall, only to slide down while standing atop a thin, seven-metre board propelled by unpredictable forces of nature and physics.

This book, by renowned Hawaiian big-wave surfer Kai Lenny (pictured, bottom left), brings together the tall tales