The Road to Nazaré
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“It will be small, 10 to 15-foot ”, the message said.
I looked at my phone again to make sure I wasn’t still asleep and dreaming, but there it was: a message from Twiggy inviting me to come surf Nazaré with him that Wednesday.
Every part of me wanted to say no.
I’d just arrived in Portugal after a summer of working as a surf instructor in the Mediterranean. I hadn’t surfed a wave over two foot in months. I had no equipment, never mind any real big wave surfing experience. But I knew this was a once in a lifetime opportunity. Before I knew it my bus ticket was booked, and after a few poor attempts at holding my breath in the hotel pool I decided that I’d just have to roll with the punches. Preparation was out of the question at this stage, with only 48 hours
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