THE COLLECTIONS

CHANEL

The love affair between Chanel and tweed was born of a literal romance—Gabrielle Chanel used to wear the tweed pieces of her lover, the Duke of Westminster. In 1925, Chanel then introduced the now-famous tweed suit in her salon on Rue de Cambon in Paris, giving way to a future where women wore—and coveted—this rebranded fabric. So when Virginie Viard set the memo for fall/winter 2022, it was no surprise that the Grand Palais Éphémere was decked out in tweed, too. The runway itself was not meant to be a green carpet, but a representation of the River Tweed, the body of water that runs across the border of Scotland and England. What better way to honour the Maison’s DNA than by literally swathing it in it? The clothes were delightfully candy-coloured, with generous doses of teal and raspberry that look renewed when rendered in the timeless textile. And in step with the bucolic references of the collection, cardigans were aptly cosy—styled with Chanel rubber wellies, no less.

BURBERRY

Burberry’s first live show in two years was far from a traditional runway: Riccardo Tisci sent models walking on dinner tables, with full table settings secured to the tablecloths as guests sat around banquet-style. This playful irreverence for propriety and etiquette was central to the collection’s celebration of British-ness, the heartbeat of Burberry. From deconstructed Nova checks to chainmail reminiscent of British knights, the collection was Tisci’s way of celebrating—and challenging—the brand’s roots. The signature trench