Surfing Life

THE DROP

Throughout history, the ocean has been a terrifying protagonist. Characterised by amplitude, wavelength, frequency and speed, a wave transfers energy through matter or space.

The sea achieves both: we usually hear it before we see it.

A “reverence” for waves is a common thread that ties cultures around the globe. Past. Present. Future. The ocean is fluid yet constant in its connection with saltwater people.

Some call it superstition. Others call it faith.

Still, sacred chanting comes in many forms. The Gilbertese peoplesOn the World Tour, Gabriel Medina, Italo Ferreira and Filipe Toledo pray before heats. Plenty of other pro surfers—WSL competitors and freesurfers—meditate to up their salty athletic advantage.

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