THE GOLDEN TOUCH
A plume of sweet smoke rises to meet me, silently swirling as it escapes its glass cloche, which has just been lifted with a theatrical flourish to reveal a generous, thick finger of Ora king salmon below.
The fish, raised about 600 kilometres away in New Zealand’s Marlborough Sounds and delivered fresh this morning, has been lightly cured in citrus and comes served with delicate spheres of pickled apple and paper-thin slices of radish. Alongside it, sits a near-translucent scampi tail that has met but
