It’s a Sunday night in Maun. I’ve spent the weekend with Louis Milne and we’re in his Land Cruiser, driving to his house outside town. Before we reach the bridge over the Thamalakane River, the Cruiser starts to stutter. Louis pulls over immediately because something is clearly wrong. Like most safari vehicles in these parts, the Cruiser has two fuel tanks and for some reason the second tank won’t feed fuel to the engine now that the first tank has emptied.
Louis gets on his cellphone and starts making calls. He speaks to everyone from a general mechanic to the owner of the local Toyota dealership. He starts several of his calls saying something to
