The first growths
1 Château Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan 1CC 97 ♥
One of the absolute standout wines of 2021 with an electric appeal almost unrivalled. Blackcurrant leaf, dark chocolate, cocoa powder, rose petals, sweet cherries and bramble fruits on the nose. Incredibly lively and energetic on the palate with a burst of sharp, sweet-sour fruits that fills the mouth, coated by chalk, slate and pencil lead mineral tannins that give intensity while the fruit persistency lingers above and through to the long finish. Multi-layered, clear ripeness and power, though delivered with suaveness and style. Blend of 50% Merlot, Classifications have been added to wine names where appropriate. For St-Emilion we have marked wines under the 2014 classification, which is due for revision in September this year (see ‘St-Emilion’s promotion contenders’ in the annual Bordeaux guide with our July issue). 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc. Drink 2028-2050 Alcohol 14.5% made with 96% Cabernet as opposed to the usual 80%-85%. First year of full organic farming in 2021. Drink 2027-2050 Alc 12.6%
2 Château Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac 1CC 97 ♥
Surely a contender for wine of the vintage, certainly on the Left Bank. Vibrant and explosive; graphite, black chocolate, black pepper and blackcurrant aromas but also with floral edges intense. Supple and racy, a rush of red and black fruits then stony minerality, spice. Fruit precision and clarity, energetic and bright, ending with liquorice, stone, graphite and toasted spice from the one block of old-vine Petit Verdot that went into the blend this year. A thoroughbred,
3 Château Margaux, Margaux 1CC 97
Nose serious and a bit closed, though such complexity on the palate. Ample, generous and chewy – the tannins have weight and density, lifted by high-definition cherry, strawberry and raspberry acidity beneath keeping things vibrant, with a sour cherry minerality to finish. Exceptional balance and sculpting, energy but also poise. Sophisticated glamour in full force. Thrilling and captivating. Cabernet Sauvignon with 8% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc. Drink 2027-2050 Alc 13.1%
Château Latour, Pauillac 1CC 96
Peony on the nose, blood orange, some cinnamon with milk chocolate and blackcurrant. Opens up to the most delectable aromatic display with some earthy notes, too. Smooth and satisfying, expands with vibrant strawberry leaf and raspberry fruits then salinity and minerality, tannins coming in to give structure, chalky and super-fine. Mineral notes settle on the tongue, almost spicy, then the expansive finish widening the whole palate. This has tension and is coiled right now but the sculpting and liveliness are there. Both fun and serious, presenting fresh fruit, balanced acidity and that iron fist structure that grows and grows. 96% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot. Drink 2027-2050 Alc 13.1%
Château Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac 1CC 96
Bright, intense nose, heady aromatics and edges of graphite, cocoa and sweet red cherries. Clarity on the palate, excellent tension with beautifully expressed cherry and strawberry fruit that has a soft, ripe fleshy core. Quiet confidence, not shouting, but gently showing off its many layers of fruit, acidity, minerality and freshness. Expands and deepens as the flavours travel across the palate in waves. Understated and introverted at the moment but still harmonious and classy; I love it. 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc. Drink 2027-2050 Alc 13.1%
Dry whites
Château Haut-Brion, Blanc, Pessac-Léognan 97 ♥
£610 (ib) Chelsea Vintners, Millésima 55% Semillon, 45% Sauvignon Blanc. Lemongrass, green apple, apricot, creamy peach and lime zest. Svelte and sleek, delivering a punch of flavour, fleshy and ample but also refined and finessed. All in harmony, honeyed lemon, crisp apple, peach and grapefruit adding nuance while the texture is clean and pure. Has extreme star quality, a mouthwatering juiciness, crystalline purity and length. Absolutely compelling. Drink 2025-2030 Alc 13.75%
