Twelve months after releasing the inaugural T Dining Guide to Champagne, I can happily report that while champagne has always made up a healthy part of my wine diet, the past year has been especially bubbly. Having—I hope convincingly—argued that champagne is to be enjoyed on more than just special occasions, I’ve found myself doing so in any number of settings with all sorts of different cuisines; nothing elevates a bowl of kimchi jjigae like a flamingo-pink saignée champagne. Meanwhile, champagne collecting has continued to flourish, with the Cristals, Salons and Clos des Goisses of the world occupying an ever more vaunted position in the global wine trade.
However, there are still a
