BACK IN 2014, Nathan and Leah Huelsebusch chose the sleepy Johnson County town of Bargersville as the site of their first Taxman Brewing Company gastro-pub. Inspired by the three years they lived in Belgium for business, the couple started serving small-batch dubbels and steak frites in the shadow of the hulking Umbarger & Sons grain elevators across the road, a farm-town metropolis that is equal parts Marvel Universe and Petticoat Junction.
The Huelsebusches’ southside base kept its rural charm while they added taprooms on
