Copenhagen restaurant Noma announced in January that it would stop serving paying guests next year and turn into a food lab in 2025, folks were split. Food writers and some diners argued the closure portended a paradigm shift away from tweezer food and endless tasting menus. Such dinners, they said, demand too much on the part of guests: too much time, money, planning, and patience. Restaurant workers, on the other hand, focused on the shittiness of the jobs. To keep the cost of a meal down to the mere hundreds of dollars, places like Noma rely on the labor of under- or unpaid
