NUTRITION
We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again: the sandwich is a culinary institution that needs defending. Portable, economical and incomparably satisfying, a judiciously filled sanger will knock any Buddha bowl into a cocked hat. Just don’t think we’re talking about plain old ham and cheese here
The idea that some foods possess inherent virtue - or, for that matter, lack moral worth – is culturally deep-seated. “Tell me what you eat and I will tell you what you are,” wrote the French polymath Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin in his 1825 treatise The Physiology Of Taste. Or, to put it another way, “You are what you eat” – a mantra enthusiastically adopted some 180 years later by Gillian McKeith in her controversial, scat-obsessed TV show of the same name.
Brillat-Savarin is thought by many to be the
