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You’ll be glad that each table at Sin-a-loa in Salisbury has a dispenser full of napkins. Nearly the entire menu, devoted to scratch-made Mexican street food, is meant to be consumed with your hands, from the street corn dripping with crema and cheese to the overstuffed burritos.
The inspiration for the menu comes from Austin, Texas, a hotbed of south-of-the-border cuisine, from white tablecloth to food truck. Reza Rahmani—who brought Persian street