Gourmet Traveller

Turning the page

Hong Kong is dead. Everyone’s left. It will never be the same again.

I’ve lost count of how many times someone has whispered these solemn proclamations to me over the past 24 months. Every time I run into someone with a mutual connection to the city, the same utterances are repeated. Whether they are ex-pats, former residents, or just those who enjoy visiting the vibrant metropolis, the conversation is bleak and dispiriting.

So when the invitation to revisit Hong Kong came through, I eyed it somewhat warily. Did I really want to see the city I love, my former home of 13 years, broken and bereft? What would I write? If what everyone says is true, how could I possibly suggest anyone spend their time or money returning to the city?

Some research was

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