Getaway

THE TRUTH ABOUT TIGERS

FIELD NOTES | Tiger Sharks

I first encountered tiger sharks on Aliwal Shoal in Durban. On a warm day, above 20°C, save for a slight breeze, typical of this part of the world, where winter isn't true to the word, I sat in a boat with photographers and shark experts, drifting on a gentle current — waiting. One black-tipped fin, then two, three and four appeared, and like a pack of terriers, a shiver of blacktip sharks dashed at sardines thrown into the water, their bright silver sides playing with the light. They seemed oblivious to their beauty, intent on not missing a snack.

I pulled on my fins, positioned my mask and dropped softly into the water. At once,buoyancy, through the freefall to the ocean's sandy floor.

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