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The West Midlands county of Staffordshire was once a powerhouse of innovation, taking 18th-century Britain into a ground-breaking future with its nascent pottery, glass, iron, coal and brewing industries. The powerhouse tag may no longer quite ring t
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“To your left, a whale!” the boat captain announces. I rush out onto the deck, where I rock in time with the waves, holding my breath and scanning the horizon. Nearby, a pod of dolphins leaps in unison, like a well-rehearsed circus troupe milking a r
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