It’s a few too many minutes after midnight, and I really should be asleep. But instead, I’m binge-watching — live and screen-free. My current obsession, a YouTube sensation, has just waded into the water hole up to her belly, then out again. She’s now marked like a honey badger: her top half silver-grey from dust; lower half dark from the water. For a rhino, it’s a strong look.
Earlier, I’d watched a gaggle of leggy supermodels bend gracefully towards a mirror: wild giraffes, preparing to drink. And in an earlier episode there was a furious family bust-up involving a herd of elephants.
I’m in Namibia’s most-celebrated national park, Etosha, beside 50-metre-wide Okaukuejo Waterhole — aman-made lifeline in a brutally arid landscape. One of Africa’s best locations
