The roads are wide and empty, with splendidly weathered pensioners clapping as our peloton passes by their homes
Just two hours south of London, the weather couldn’t be more different. Admittedly I’ve flown here, but it’s incredible to think that the temperature in degrees on Portugal’s northwest coast is double that of home, and the idea it might rain preposterous. It’s why signing up for this late-season sportive was such a no-brainer – unlike the Low Countries or the High Alps you’re all but guaranteed a sun-shining time in Portugal, right through into winter.
It’s October now, but even December days are bright and clement. Still, fine weather is not enough on its own – the draw here is L’Étape Portugal, which promises 2,500m of climbing over 140km of roads rolling gently out of seaside town Viana do Castelo.
Viana might not be on many UK cyclists’ bucket lists but what it lacks in reputation it more than makes up for in charm, cuisine and climate. As I wait in the start pen and tune in to the multilingual chatter, it appears that most of mainland Europe has cottoned on to these things too.
With a pistol crack that chatter is silenced, and as
