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Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ spring/summer 2023 menswear collection for Prada was about subtly twisted normality. The show space waszippered leather short shorts—not your standard menswear fare. In that vein they continued, the sober alternating with the subversive. Next came boyish knits, quickly followed by girlish gingham. They were all grounded by those sexy, shiny boots—until they weren’t. Midway through the show, those skinny suits and ginghams and leathers got a whole new attitude when worn with chunky running shoes with brilliant flashes of colour along their sides—the blur of brights lending the sneakers a sense of motion even in stillness. Trust fashion’s most forward-thinking duo to come up with a detail like that. ■