Felipe Fernández-Armesto is inspired by an old menu
MOVING HOUSE INDUCES nostalgia. Among retrievals from a disused cupboard that have made me squirm, exult, atone and giggle are three menu cards, tied with gold and blue ribbon, from the King Charles Club of nearly 50 years ago.
In those days, the club — a dining society elected from members of St John’s College, Oxford — was a venerable and decorous sodality. We never sang
