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“I always thought of Chinese, Indian, and Malay cuisine as one,” Jasvinder Karam tells me. The author of Champur, Flavours from a Malaysian Home, flips through her cookbook, and recipes pop out, from nasi lemak and curry mee to biryani, organised by ingredient rather than cuisine. “My Malay cooking came from my dad’s friends, while I was exposed to Indian and Chinese fare at home and at school,” she says.