uxelles—the French preparation made by sautéing heaps of minced mushrooms with aromatics and herbs—is typically schmeared onto toast points as a fancy appetizer or over a premium roast to make beef Wellington. But I recently discovered that its intensely savory, earthy profile and fine consistency also make it ideal as a pasta sauce base when you want the mushrooms to fully coat the pasta and not just rest in scatters around the bowl. Making duxelles is also a terrific way to maximize the flavor of everyday white mushrooms: They can
