A FEAST OF FISH
LAC LEMAN
To the Swiss, as to many, it’s known as Lake Geneva. But here, in the village of Yvoire, on the French side, it’s known as Lac Léman. And, from the rooftop terrace of the restaurant Les Jardins du Léman, I can see it glistening in the mid-distance.
Although I hadn’t realised it when I first sat down, I’m here for fish — because, as it’s soon explained to me, no food-loving visitor to Yvoire should leave without trying at least one of the lake’s three most treasured specimens: fera, omble chevalier and perch.
Right now, it’s time for fera, which arrives sitting in a fragrant, buttery puddle, accompanied by a punchy bowl of thyme risotto. A type of whitefish, it’s quite tender and absorbs the sauce wonderfully, while a cluster of gingerbread croutons give occasional forkfuls some extra pizazz. And, as I work my way through a long-necked bottle of crisp Savoie Crépy, I feel like I’m getting a fix on flavours of the lake.
Everyone who lives near the shores of Lac Léman will have a view on its three
