MEXICO CITY, MEXICO
JESUS TORNÉS EXPENDIO DE MAIZ SIN NOMBRE
Jesus Tornés carries the spirit of Mexico with him wherever he goes—whether that’s cruising through the country on his motorcycle as a young cook with just 300 pesos (US$17) to his name, spending time with farmers and producers in rural Mexico to learn the stories hidden in their soil, or hunched over flames at Expendio de Maiz sin Nombre, often shortened to Expendio de Maiz, his restaurant in Mexico City’s vibrant Roma Norte district.
The restaurant started as a love letter to one of the country’s most humble yet essential foods: the tortilla. Tornés grew up watching his grandmother nixtamalise corn to make, which was
