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There’s a line in the poem Goodman’s Bay by the Bahamian poet Christian Campbell that reads, ‘God, there is too much red in the sky!’ I consider the line beautifully dramatic until I stand on the shore at dusk in Basse-Terre and find it apt. My unfamiliarity with the immensity of sky and sea on a tropical island in the Western Hemisphere makes everything seem unreal — every colour more intense, every horizon more distant. This aura of the surreal makes my arrival in Guadeloupe feel like