COOK with wine,’ W. C. Fields once said. ‘And sometimes, I even add it to the food.’ The old wit may have liked a drink (or nine), but he certainly had a point. Because booze—be it red or white wine, sherry, brandy or whisky—is as essential a kitchen ingredient as garlic, onions, oil and butter. In fact, barely a day goes by without my pouring a splash of this, or glass of that, into some bubbling sauce, stew or gravy. It doesn’t just add acidity, but flavour, too, ranging from the subtle to the altogether more pronounced. There are, however, strict rules as regards the use of booze in the kitchen. Don’t for a moment imagine that you can use any old rubbish. Your is not a dustbin for
