MMM - The Motorhomers' Magazine

Rollin’ on the river

ME AND MY 'VAN

Peter Dawson

I'm gravitating away from club sites and civilised settings towards wild places and even wilder weather in search of proper peace and quiet

2022 S&L Atlanta Twin on Fiat Ducato XL 140. It is anonymous in woodland, inconspicuous on the moor and stealthy by the seaside

The mighty River Rhine marches unopposed through Switzerland and Germany before barging into the Netherlands. On entering the massively complex delta system of rivers and canals that is the Low Countries, usual rules no longer apply. Instead of joining together to surge seawards, the waterways split up and meander off, changing names and direction seemingly at random and slowing down to an unhurried wander, more in keeping with the general ambience and the native laid-back attitude.

One such bifurcation happens on the south side of Arnhem, where a significant portion of the Nederrijn slips quietly away to turn northwards… and the River IJssel is born. At this point (De IJsselkop) the water is barely 10m above sea level so the 100km (63-mile) journey is not going to be rushed and neither will my exploration of this underrated backwater.

We will encounter a string of medieval towns and cities whose turbulent history is inextricably entwined with their river. In between are some surprisingly wild stretches

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