Signature Luxury Travel & Style

WONDERS of the deep

Plunging into the blue just before dawn, I descend and swim madly to the reef below me. The current is strong – so strong I can barely turn my head. I find a handhold to steady myself and look out beyond the reef. Ahead of me is the largest group of fish I’ve ever seen, swirling in a mating frenzy. A few opportunistic sharks circle this tornado of snapper, darting through it periodically to grab a snack or two.

The spectacle I’m witnessing is a spawning event. In the early mornings leading up to each months of December to late January, and bumphead parrot fish – the buffalo of the underwater world – spawn in spectacular fashion in the days leading up to each new moon.

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