In a cobbled square in Aachen, beside Germany's most beautiful cathedral, those industrious Rhinelanders are making the final preparations for my favourite Christmas market.
I've been coming here for 30 years, and I never tire of it. Back in Britain, I'm Ebenezeer Scrooge but, wandering around Aachen's Weihnachtsmarkt, I feel like a child at Christmas again.
During Advent, these clusters of homely wooden huts spring up all over Germany, selling the same Germanic food and drink and the same handmade wooden trinkets. There's not much to choose between them – so why do I like this one best of all? Partly because it's so accessible, only a few hours by train from London, but above all because it's in such an archaic and attractive