As the road hooks around the southern tip of St Margarets Bay, the silhouette of Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse comes into view. The beacon surprises travellers on the coastal highway, inspiring simile with its appearances: it’s a gigantic chess piece, a wine decanter, a jack-in-the-box popping up unexpectedly at road’s end. To me, it shows up like a saltshaker on a table of rocks, overlooking the wrinkled cloth of blue sea beyond —a fitting beginnng to a road trip through the seafood haven of Nova Scotia.
The southwest of the province is a place of pilgrimage for lighthouse enthusiasts, with many of the most beautiful examples on the Atlantic. Where the tide is sucked and squeezed between the peninsulas of Halifax and Yarmouth, lighthouses peer out in ivory white and
